A flywheel depth gauge is needed to measure the amount of recess before and after resurfacing. To achieve the proper surface finish, wet grinding with silicone carbide stones can be done. Another option is dry grinding with CBN stones. The latter are more costly but they last longer. Softer stones are ideal for grinding forged steel flywheels. Hard stones, on the other hand, are recommended for cast iron flywheels. It is also important to use the correct coolant for good cutting action and long stone life.
Water-based coolants must have a rust inhibitor to avoid rust spots from building up on a resurfaced flywheel. The other method of resurfacing is by cutting.
It is typically done on a brake lathe. Setting up a flywheel on a lathe takes time. It should also be done carefully to ensure that the flywheel turns true on the lathe. One disadvantage of this method is that a lathe bit has the tendency to miss hard spots, leaving uneven areas.
The other option is to shave off more amount of metal but it can negatively affect the installed clutch height.
The release bearing on cars with hydraulic linkages may have limited travel. When too much metal is shaved off from the flywheel, the clutch may not be able to completely release when the hydraulic linkage is at the limit of its travel. It is always best to resurface your flywheel each time you have your clutch serviced. Several clutch clutch manufacturers do not accept warranty claims when you fail to have your flywheel resurfaced, but it may or may not be related to your driving needs and habits.
There are some indications for you and your mechanic should check to determine if the flywheel needs to be resurfaced or replaced. Worn or badly damaged flywheels usually need expensive clutch repairs. On the other hand, if there is glazing or discoloration, then your flywheel only needs to be resurfaced. Doing so will help prevent clutch slipping or abnormal wear due to glazing and discoloration.
Resurfacing flywheels are a lot cheaper than replacing one. The cost of replacing a flywheel depends on the make and model of your car. When the old clutch is removed, the flywheel should always be carefully inspected to determine its condition. This includes measuring the flatness of the flywheel with a straightedge and feeler gauge, and inspect the surface for cracks, grooving or hard spots discolored areas that are slightly raised above the surrounding surface.
Some specifications allow a maximum runout of up to. But according to some experts, more than. More than. Flatter is always better. Of course, if the surface of the flywheel is flat and free from defects, there is no need to resurface it.
But if it is not in like-new condition, the flywheel should be resurfaced before the new clutch is installed. If a worn flywheel is not resurfaced, the replacement clutch won't last. Most clutch suppliers will not honor such a warranty claim if the flywheel was not resurfaced or was resurfaced incorrectly when the clutch was installed.
Installing a new clutch disc on a worn or warped surface is asking for trouble, yet all too often the flywheel is not resurfaced to save time or money. If a flywheel is found to be damaged cracks that are more than surface deep, or cracks around the crankshaft bolt holes , replacement is required.
A cracked flywheel can explode with tremendous force, so under no circumstances should you take a chance on a flywheel that is questionable.
If the teeth are part of the flywheel itself and are damaged, a new flywheel should be installed to eliminate any possible cranking problems. If a flywheel needs to be resurfaced or replaced, its index position with respect to the crankshaft should be clearly marked prior to removal to maintain proper engine balance. If a dual-mass flywheel on one of these vehicles is worn, it must be replaced. On Ford applications, a dual-mass flywheel can be resurfaced by removing the bolts and separating the primary and secondary flywheels.
Ford recommends using new bolts when the flywheel is reassembled. Conventional one-piece flywheels are available to replace the more expensive dual-mass flywheels on some applications such as 7. The solid flywheels do not use the same clutch as the original, and some are designed for a larger diameter clutch to beef up the torque capacity of the drivetrain.
If you worry, buy a new one, return it if the old one is serviceable. Yes, do the pilot bearing. I would never get that close to the rear oil seal and not change it unless I knew it was low mileage since it was swapped out. Mechanical clutch problems in Miatas result in slipping, not failure to disengage, unless there is considerable damage, usually to fingers or TOB. From the previous worker, you may have needed it all? Just trying to help people know when outside work usually is sufficient Master and slave as busting open the bellhousing is beyond the scope of many home workers.
It's what you know that isn't so. Originally Posted by 3MiataFamily. Originally Posted by gtxhawaii. You might treat yourself to a modern clutch some time Bill. The difference can be as profound as truck stop coffee compared to Konas finest beans, roast and ground the morning before they were brewed.
The newer materials have a more predictable, satiny 'feel' on engagement. Some of us thrill to these things; others can't be bothered. Lance Schall. I have never and would never do a clutch job without blanchard grinding flywheel. And the pilot bearing is the weakest link in the system. Always replace it.
STR Alorman. For my. I'm having to drop my transmission when really I should have had it machined when I had my engine out. The distance between the turrets and the flywheel surface is a critical measurement. It's worth it while you have it out. Yes, it should go without saying, the competent shop will pull the locating dowels and machine the tops of the clutch mounting surface to match. Lance, what does the Blanchard grinding do for you?
Are you seeking a specific surface roughness as is Dennis Nichols, with his use of grit? Are you seeking to remove every bit of the previous clutch material which has transferred to the clutch plate?
Are you seeking a very high specification for surface flatness for the plate, and to take out any warping which might have occurred over the years? Or do you simply regard this as 'good practice'? If you find that this achieves a 'better' result, there is no faulting success.
Still, I would like to know what you, and the people who do this, are seeking to achieve. Well, Blanchard is a brand of vertical axis grinder that hold the work piece with a magnet and produced the characteristic swirl finish. What the automotive machine shop really uses is specific grinder that registers the flywheel by the flywheel's mounting surface to the crankshaft and typically uses a cupped grindwheel.
The axis of the grindwheel is tipped slightly to cut quickly and produce the swirl finish we are after. This does actually result in a barely measureable dish to the fresh surface. What are we after? The dish is not important, what we want is radial consistency; balance.
And of course the right surface finish.
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